Suggested Itinerary - Day one
Two of South Africa’s most spectacular passes in one day!
The Swartberg (Black Mountain) Pass has been compared to the more renowned Khyber Pass. In their book, Geological Journeys, authors Nick Norman and Gavin Whitfield note, “Though not its equal in fame, perhaps for scenic splendour it almost rivals its Himalayan counterpart; for geology we would dare to suggest it outstrips it”. Borrow our copy of their book and use it as a reference for the day.
Drive out from Calitzdorp Country House, turn left and continue past the Nel’s river dam (nice view site 4 kms from CCH) and into the Groenfontein valley, travelling through the Swartberg foothills. Look out for the quaint Ou Meule just past the Kruisrivier on the left. You can see other fine examples of the regional architecture along the way. After 27.4 kms from CCH, at the T-junction, follow the ‘Cango Caves’ sign (left) to the next T-junction (35.7 kms). Now a left at the ‘Prince Albert’ sign and enjoy the long climb up the sky-topping Swartberg pass. Another Thomas Bain triumph of 19th century construction, the pass was officially opened with champagne and 21-gun salute in 1888. Taking over from the original contractor, who underbid on the tender and went insolvent, Bain completed the job in a remarkable three years using convict labour of around 220 men. The pass was in daily use by late 1886. The total cost was 14,500 pounds. Take your time, make plenty of stops, enjoy the fabulous views and the magnificent dry-stone retaining walls and click lots of stunning photos before you descend into quaint Prince Albert.
There is much of historical interest in Prince Albert, including weavers, a cheese maker and museum. Lunch there in leisurely fashion at the Swartberg Hotel, or another of several casual restaurants, then back to Calitzdorp the long way round – via the R407 and N12 to Klaarstroom, Meiringspoort, De Rust and Oudtshoorn.
Meiringspoort is the second of your splendid ‘double whammy’ of passes for today.
Equally spectacular, but this time low level: Meiringspoort pass, where for twelve glorious kilometres the road goes courting a meandering stream through towering cliffs, distorted with the fractured evidence of prehistoric upheavals. Completed in 1858, the original road crossed the river 21 times and was subjected to disruptive flood damage every few years. The most recent rebuilding took place in 1999, three years after very severe flood damage back in 1996. Drive carefully and you will be amazed at the curious baboons that follow your journey with seeming great interest, but it’s just cupboard love, so don’t feed them, please!
Allow yourselves time to look at the pretty village of De Rust and perhaps take tea there.
On towards Oudtshoorn, look out for the wondrous ‘Ostrich palace’ on a rise on your left after the road crosses a little stream. It has been beautifully restored and is also worth a pic or two. No time to sightsee Oudtshoorn today, we’ll come to that another day.
A brief 30 minutes the other side of Oudtshoorn (look out for tortoises crossing the road!) and you’re home at Calitzdorp Country House, ready for a swim and beer, a G & T, or even a bottle of bubbly beside the pool. Once settled and relaxed, contemplate the words of Rudyard Kipling from ‘Bridge-guard in the Karroo’ penned in 1903
‘Sudden the desert changes,
The raw glare softens and clings,
Till the aching Oudtshoorn ranges
Stand up like the thrones of kings’.
view day 2 - Now explore Calitzdorp
